A Warped Philosophy

A Nikon F4s and 50mm f/1.2 AI-s

Not all that radical. Or is it? First, there may or may not be people out there who ascribe to a similar workflow. That’s not to suggest they are “warped”. Although in my case, some find that questionable. Nevertheless, using a manual focus lens with an AF camera is not all that unusual. In fact, I can point to very famous photographers who do. (see image of Ellen Von Unwerth and her F5 and Ai-s 50mm) Not that an AF lens of the same focal length wouldn’t be fine. It usually is. And, in fact, preferred by most. Especially if you shoot everything above f/5.6. While different lenses “draw” differently, once you go above a certain f stop, the differences become almost imperceptible. Particularly at the shorter focal lengths.

Nikon F4s Autofocus Vs. Manual Focus

Although giving a nod to those who may disagree, I think everyone would agree that once you “open up” a lens, both faults and advantages are amplified tenfold. Uhhh,…maybe not tenfold, but you get the idea. The reason I sometimes shoot with a manual lens on a specific camera, (Nikon F4), is simple. I slowly compose images, I sometimes want to “feel” movement in images, I love this particular lens, (Nikon 50mm Ai-s 1.2), and the amount of light it lets in, (both for the bright viewfinder and just the visceral feel of it) and that camera has Nikon’s most wide ranging lens compatibility. (and has a variable diopter,…very important to me) 

So, now you know the basis. However, that reasoning would not apply to all people. But all are valid reasons to me. If you shoot sports or kids at play, you could certainly find better AF Nikkor choices. But, I don’t shoot sports. Plus, I’d be using a longer lens.

Set to ‘M’!

Of course, the first thing is to set the mode selector to ‘M’. (the switch on the front, next to the lens mount) You can use a flash set to TTL, but the IR focus assist is moot, because it only works in ‘S’ mode anyway. (if you’re using an AF lens, it also only works in ‘S’,…not ‘C’!) Once I have my 50mm 1.2 on, I’m not changing it anyway. There are three focus modes available through a focus mode selector provided on the camera body. Each mode corresponds the type of lens and selection of either AF or MF operation. The top modes, ( Ph, P, S, A, M), can ONLY be set to A or M with any manual focus lens. Note: The top deck shutter button “S, Ch, Cl, etc.” are FILM ADVANCE MODES only. I know that seems obvious, but I’ve been asked the question multiple times.

If anything you do requires using focus tracking, (‘C’…Continuous), you should use an AF lens, as the Nikon F4s has a computer-assisted focus tracking module which calculates the anticipated moves of the subject matter. All very cool,…but remember, photographers have been taking sharp images from way before AF was invented. (plenty of people shoot with Leica M’s without autofocus) Is AF easier? Sure. My iPhone is also “easier”. Easier is not always better.

A Very Bright Lens

Manual focusing is great with the Nikon F4s for 2 reasons; One, the variety of focus screens available is fantastic, and two, you have a backup focus verification built in with the electronic rangefinder. When focused, that little green light comes on in the viewfinder, and works whether using an AF Nikkor lens or an ancient MF Nikkor. So, you can use the standard BriteView B screen, which is a clear matte screen or interchangeable focusing screens. Not a couple of focusing screens. Ten of them. Not counting the ‘Beattie Intenscreens’. With a range of screens such as microprisms, gridded and split-image screens. They are sensitive down to EV-1. Which means even in a dark nightclub setting you can clearly see all. And though that is pretty dark, any questionable focus and the in-focus indicator LED can be relied upon. Of course, the faster the lens, the better it works. For most people, I’d probably use a J or K, (standard on F3), screen when only manual focusing. But not if you’re jumping back and forth between AF and manual focus lenses.

But the reason I love this combination is I’m always sure of focus. Yeah, yeah, I know modern camers have 10 zillion focusing points. But, why? AF, whether a Nikon D810 or F5, have problems with metallic surfaces, strong backlighting and certain filters. So, you ask, why not just use an F3 or FM? Two reasons. Matrix metering with almost every lens, and I like motor drives. And cameras with variable diopters. (matching my variable eyesight) While the F4s is no lightweight, have you ever felt an F3 with MD-4 motordrive? Might as well use a Mamiya RB67! Plus you can lighten the F4s up quite a bit while still retaining motordrive capabilities by changing out the battery pack from an MB-21 to MB-20. My last reason for using an F4 is a very personal preference,… I like knobs.

F5 & Manual Lenses – No Matrix Metering

So why not the F5? Ellen is using that same lens with an F5. Yes, she is. I’ve actually owned and used 2 Nikon F5’s. No, they didn’t break. However, eventually the covering started to peel away from the body on both. The F4 has no ‘covering’. Now, since I don’t know any other photographers who’ve had this issue, I’ll assume it is a chemical reaction to my greasy Sicilian fingers. YMMV. And only the Nikon F4s Matrix meters with manual focus lenses. And Nikon’s Matrix metering is very, very good. (although manual lenses do Matrix meter on an F6) Actually, the F5 has an even better Matrix meter when using AF lenses. Lastly, I don’t “hate” autofocus. In fact, I have a Contax G camera with autofocus that I would never attempt to manual focus, even though it’s (supposedly) possible. Plus I have a totally manual focus Rollei 6000 series. 

I included a PDF download link to the Nikon F4s manual, and Nikon’s link to the 50mm f/1.2. (Yes, they still sell it)

Nikon Manual

Nikon USA 50MM